Page 27 - Discover Israel Magazine - UK edition 2018
P. 27

of the Teutonic Order (founded in Acre in
                                                      1198 to aid Crusaders from Germany), who
                                                      came from its outposts in the Southern
                                                      and Eastern Europe. They could share
                                                      the content of their conversations and the
                                                      generous hospitality they received. They
                                                      could also tell us exactly what treasures were
                                                      kept in the guarded castle, and whether they
                                                      included the crown jewels of Armenia, which
                                                      the King of Armenia gave to the Order in
                                                      1228 to protect. Exactly what they included
                                                      remains a mystery to this very day.

                                                      Alas, the stones cannot speak, and we are         Mathanes Haddad, blacksmith,
                                                      left with the mystery and hypotheses of           continues to use the same tools
                                                      historians as well as the original archive that   as his father and grandfather to
                                                      over the years made its way to Austria and        produce the finest metal tools.
                                                      Germany, where it remains today. However,         Photo: Yoav Saks
                                                      today we are mainly left with a lovely spot,      Elias improvising...
                                                      in the middle of the enchanting splendour of      His musical pub,
                                                      the Nahal Kziv nature reserve. This reserve       Shahin Music,
                                                      surrounds the channel of Nahal Kziv, the          is where young
                                                      longest of the the Galilee's streams. The         people come to
                                                      water that runs through it makes it possible      play together.
                                                      to swim in several cool pools, with verdant       Photo: Itay Avidar
                                                      growth that offers shade to hikers and
                                                      also includes a wide variety of animal life,
                                                      including over 200 Persian fallow deer
                                                      that were released into the wild as part of
                                                      an effort by the Israel Nature and Parks
                                                      Authority to bring the wild animals of the
                                                      Bible back to the Land of the Bible.

          Good Bread Bakery - follow the tantalizing  A memorial overlooking Lebanon
          scent of the fresh-baked sourdough bread
          that fills the alley in the early morning   A spectacular wooden observation point
                                                      was built on Mount Adir (3,300 ft.) of heroes
heart of a green forest on the bank of Nahal          of the Second Lebanon War, which brought
Kziv, you can still easily imagine the Crusader       quiet to the north. The location offers one
knights who came from Europe to rescue the            of the most incredible views not only of the
Holy Land, slowly leaving the gigantic castle         Galilee, but also of southern Lebanon. You
with the German name Starkenberg (strong              can see Mt. Hermon on the east, the towns
mountain) they built just 45 years earlier,           on both sides of the border, the roads and
while taking their treasures and archives             spectacular natural landscapes, and even
with them. Mamluk Sultan Baybars and his              the Mediterranean to the west. Not to be
men, who beat and expelled the Crusaders,             missed.
looked on as the knights marched
towards their capital of Acre after formally          Craftspeople, music and good food
surrendering in June 1271.
                                                      "Why can't the peoples of the Middle East
The stones could verify the hypothesis                get along and be friends like us?" This was
that the castle, while built in an area that          the question I was asked by Bassem the
offers breathtaking beauty offered virtually          blacksmith, the knife maker at his family's
no strategic importance, and was indeed               ancient workshop, which he is now restoring.
built and used as a headquarters for the              His question is typical of the entire Galilee
order of German knights. The same stones              and especially Tarshisha, which is a shining
could describe the meetings of the heads              example of tolerance, mutual respect and
                                                      community living among Christians, Muslims
                                                      and Jews.

                                                      Tarshisha, which today is part of the mixed
                                                      city Ma'alot-Tarshiha, was not a regular
                                                      village, but not a city either. It was something
                                                      in between. A centre of Galilee villages that

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