Page 31 - Holyland Magazine - 2009 Edition
P. 31

Doron Nissim  Photos clockwise from top far left: Remains of a
                       INPA                                                                                                                          Byzantine church in Avdat, one of the large
                                                                                                                                                     Nabatean cities along the spice route.
gathered strength for the leg to come.          and developing methods to preserve water,                                                            Left, Moa, one of the first watering stops in the
Traveling along the coastline of the            including the use of dams, plastered cisterns                                                        Arava valley, used the water for desert agriculture,
Red Sea to the Arava and via the Negev          and water conduits; thus, they were able                                                             as indicated by the large round stone olive press.
desert (in today’s southern Israel), and        to provide for Europe’s growing demand                                                               Below, remains of a large church in Mamshit, one
then through the Sinai desert to Egypt          for products from the East. Over the years,                                                          of the stops along the perfume route that grew
brought them eventually to the shores of        the Nabatean caravanserai became cities                                                              from a watering hole to a caravanserai and then
the Mediterranean Sea. There the goods          and fortresses protecting this invaluable                                                            into a thriving city and center of Christianity.
were loaded onto ships sailing along the        trade route.
coast to Greece and then on to the                                                                                                                   Avdat, Nitzana and Halutza. Others included
marketplaces of Rome.                           Recently, the ancient Nabatean incense                                                               Shivta and Rehovot-in-the-Negev. In places
                                                (spice) route through Israel’s Negev Desert                                                          like the Ein Saharonim caravanserai and
With all the taxes levied en route from         was declared by UNESCO as a World                                                                    oasis or near the ruins of the Nabatean city
Arabia, the fragrant substances literally       Heritage Site, and the camel caravan trails                                                          of Kurnub (Mamshit), you can camp out,
became worth their weight in gold by the        have been made accessible to tourists                                                                enjoying the local Bedouin hospitality with
time they arrived in the markets of Greece      interested in taking a few days off the bus                                                          music and food around the campfire. It’s
and Rome, and the traders became                tour to join camel trips along these time-                                                           a great place to learn about the ancient
extremely wealthy.                              honored routes. For the less adventurous,                                                            traditions of healing, and the aromatic and
                                                a few hours of off-road exploration in a                                                             cosmetic properties of frankincense and
For centuries, the Midianites held a            jeep can be just as exciting.                                                                        myrrh. Here, you can once again discover
monopoly over this spice trade and by the                                                                                                            the many and varied uses inherent in these
3rd century BCE the Nabateans had taken         The route passes through the Nabatean                                                                natural treasures that 2,000 years ago were
over, establishing their capital in Petra (in   military camps and forts of Moa in the                                                               deemed “worthy of a king” and brought to
today’s Jordan). They mastered the secrets      Arava desert to the ruins of their ancient                                                           honor the Christ Child.
of desert survival, digging secret water holes  cities, the most important of which were
                                                                                                                                                     For a detailed map of the spice route in the
                                                                                                                                                     Negev, go to:
                                                                                                                                                     www.parks.org.il/files/Incense_Route_for_internet.ppt.
                                                                                                                                                     For tourist information, see:
                                                                                                                                                     www.goisrael.com/Tourism_Eng/Tourist+Information
                                                                                                                                                     /Discover+Israel/Geographic+Regions/The+Negev+
                                                                                                                                                     Desert.htm
                                                                                                                                                     www.shayarot.co.il/english/List.aspx?Item=623
                                                                                                                                                     www.negevjeep.co.il/english/about.html

                                                                                                                                                                                                             Itamar Grinberg

(Song of Solomon 3:6)
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