Page 32 - Holyland Magazine - 2010 Edition
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pause to gather tiny shells here, which          Bethsaida on the slope of the hill near the     This restored Byzantine church marks the traditional
make perfect “natural souvenirs,” or to          lake, and Capernaum on the shoreline.           site where Jesus cast demons into a herd of swine.
stroll over to where the warm spring water       Scholars, who imagine Jesus frequently          Below: The famed loaves and fishes mosaic.
streams into the lake.                           walking the roads among these three cities,
                                                 have dubbed the area the Evangelical            place in the land of the Gadarenes; some
Back on the main road around the lake, a         Triangle. Over the centuries, when traveling    say Gerasenes (the names of famous Roman
short walk along a path created to allow         along the roads was not always safe, their      cities of the region) or even Gergesenes.
pilgrims to get the feel of walking the land,    locations were gradually lost. Capernaum        Scholars believe the variations in the
leads down to Job’s Spring. Next to a half-      was the first to be rediscovered in the 19th    accounts show the great need to preserve
ruined tower where spring water once             century – the intrepid Charles Wilson of        the story, although the original locales may
welled up, which may date back as early          the British Royal Engineers explored the        have been obscured over the centuries.
as Roman times, a path leads down to the         synagogue in 1866. Almost three decades         The site was discovered when a fisherman
shore where the spring gushes out as a           later, in 1894, the land was purchased by       and scholar of Sea of Galilee lore, Mendel
warm waterfall (around 60 degrees                the Franciscans, who still own it. Chorazim     Nun, from nearby Kibbutz Ein Gev, noticed
Farenheit) pouring into the lake. According      was identified in the early 20th century;       beautiful mosaics were being unearthed
to an old local folktale, Job was cured of       excavations and restoration now present         during road construction here following the
his boils when he washed in this spring.         fascinating remains from the early centuries    Six Day War in 1967. As study of the finds
The warm water makes these prime fishing         after Jesus’ time. Bethsaida was the last of    progressed, it was recalled that a Jewish
grounds, likely to be the place where Jesus      the “triangle” to rejoin the modern pilgrims'   town called Gergesa from the time of Jesus
found his disciples Simon and Andrew,            itinerary; over the past decade, it too has     stood here. Putting two and two together,
James and John (Matthew 4:21-22).                been excavated and is believed also to be       scholars realized the mosaics, which have
                                                 the site of ancient Geshur, from which          now been restored, must be part of a church
Those seeking to feel the land under their       David’s wife Maacah hailed (1 Chron. 3:2).      marking the site of the healing known as
own two feet should take the path that           Capernaum’s gleaming white synagogue            “the Miracle of the Swine.”
leads up from Tabgha to another of the           contrasts with Chorazim’s black basalt one;
well-loved spots around the lake, the Mount      the latter contains a Moses seat of the type    No circumnavigation of the Sea of Galilee
of Beatitudes. (Most pilgrims take it downhill,  Jesus spoke of in Matthew 23:1.                 is complete without a stop at the Jordan
for obvious reasons.) A centuries-old                                                            River at its southern exit from the lake.
tradition says Jesus preached the Sermon         In Capernaum, you will undoubtedly spend        The fact that Jesus’ baptism by John (see
on the Mount on this mountaintop with its        quite a bit of time recalling Jesus’ teachings  page 20) is likely to have taken place at a
commanding view, where a chapel was              and healings here and seeing the remnants       point much further south has not stopped
built here in the 1930s. The chapel is           of the traditional house of Peter’s mother-     thousands of visitors over the years from
crowned by a dome, each of whose glass           in-law and the famed synagogue, marking         commemorating the event here by renewing
windows is inscribed with one of the             the spot where Jesus preached and healed        their baptismal vows or being baptized in
Beatitudes. It is still tended by Italian nuns   (Mark 1:21). On the hill of Bethsaida, Prof.    these famous waters, adding this jewel to
who also run the pilgrims’ guesthouse on         Rami Arav of the University of Nebraska         the crown of the pilgrim’s progress around
the grounds.                                     has uncovered a fisherman’s house to            the sacred sea.
                                                 remind visitors of Peter (who was born
Speaking of walking, a 40-mile walking           here, according to John 1:42). A wine-
trail around the lake is now in the final        maker’s house has also been found, and a
stages of preparation: The Kinneret Trail        street from the time of Jesus, along with
will circumnavigate the entire Sea of Galilee    Old Testament – remains of walls and a
along the shore – Israeli nature-lovers have     massive gate. Visitors gather at a lookout
been pushing for such a trail for years and      over the lake and open their Bibles to the
pilgrims who love a good walk will also          story of Jesus’ healing of a blind man (Mark
benefit.                                         8:22-26), somewhere near this very spot.
                                                 Chorazim, northeast of the Mount of
On the north shore of the lake are the           Beatitudes and the furthest of the three
remains of three cities Jesus must have          sites from the lakeshore, also has interesting
known well, judging by the harsh criticism
they incurred (Matt: 11:21): Chorazim and                    sites to see, including the
                                                             synagogue, a ritual bath and an
                                                             ancient village square.

                                                             On the east side of the lake is
                                                             the Land of the Gadarenes,
                                                             where Jesus exorcised demons
                                                             and cast them into pigs that ran
                                                             off the cliff and into the water.
                                                             Some versions of the story
                                                             present one demoniac, some
                                                             two; some say the event took

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