Page 45 - Holyland Magazine - 2010 Edition

In the Bible, Acre was known as “Acco”
and was mentioned in the book of Judges
as one of the places the Israelite tribes could 18th century history that has also left behind Columns Caravansary, or the underground Hospitaller
not conquer: “Nor did Asher drive out those
living in Acco or Sidon or Ahlab or Aczib
or Helbah or Aphek or Rehob, and because
of this, the people of Asher lived among
the Canaanite inhabitants of the land”
(Judges 1:31-33).
The original Canaanite city, later brought
under the rule of David (2 Sam. 24:7), is
now a mound of ruins called Tel Napoleon,
after the famous French general who
besieged the city in 1799. Archaeologists
have found clear evidence of a Canaanite
presence, though little has been excavated.
So modern-day visitors head for the port,
where they enjoy exploring a city with lanes
largely unchanged since medieval times –
old, sea-scarred walls, mysterious tunnels,
colorful markets and friendly inhabitants.
A tour of Acre is best done on foot. You
can begin at the Knights Halls, part of the
huge, hulking Hospitaller Fortress that once
towered over the town. The Crusaders
conquered Acre in 1104, five years after
taking Jerusalem, because they needed a
safe haven for pilgrims and a port. As their
name indicates, this military-religious order
provided hospitality to Christian pilgrims.
Today, visitors walk the cavernous halls of
the fortress to admire a rare Eastern outpost
of gothic architecture. Many groups also
take the opportunity to discuss the
differences between the Crusaders of old
and modern Christians, who come to Israel
out of a sense of kinship with Israelis.
The restoration of the Knights Halls, carried
out about a decade ago, is a story in itself.
In addition to its status as a unique
(Acts 21:7-8)
Mediterranean outpost of 12th century
medieval architecture, Acre has a fascinating
significant architectural remains. In order
to dig safely beneath the old buildings,
pylons were installed to hold up the upper
floor. Only then were the halls below
hollowed out. Then came renewal – with
restorers and architects mindful at every
turn of their obligation to keep everything
authentic. After a visit to the Hospitaller
"Hall of Columns" you can leave the
fortress via a tunnel that may have been
the ancient escape route, or perhaps an
ancient sewage tunnel, experts say.
(Unfortunately for the knights, it was
probably both.) Nearby is the old Turkish
bathhouse, now restored with a whimsical
interactive audiovisual presentation of the
bathhouse as the social nexus of the city
it once was.
As you walk through the market, taking in
the aromas of a dozen exotic spices, you
can imagine the wealth of goods exported
from here at a time – during the reign of
Richard the Lionhearted – when the
economic output of Acre was greater than
all of England. The Venetians probably
learned to blow glass from the inhabitants
of Acre, once part of the Phoenician empire
famous for its glass made from fine
Mediterranean sand. Coffee, cinnamon,
cloves and sugar cane also came to the
West through the Acre port.
At the small port, you’ll find a number of
fish restaurants overlooking the old walls.
You can walk along the pier to watch the
fishermen hauling in their catch or mending
and folding their nets.
Don’t miss the picturesque Columns
Caravansary, an 18th century structure to
From left to right: Charm and history go hand in
hand, whether in the old fishing port, the medieval
"Hall of Columns." Photographs courtesy of the Old
Acre Development Co. Ltd.
which camel caravans once brought
merchandise from the east, including grain
from Galilee, set for export to Europe.
Some years ago, a complaint by a city
resident about blocked plumbing led to the
discovery of the 350-yard-long tunnel
connecting the fortress of the Templars,
another Crusader order, to the port. The
tunnel has become another visitor attraction,
with an entrance located near the Columns
Caravansary.
Leaving the lighthouse parking area at the
end of your walk, and heading north along
the seaside, you’ll see another entrance to
the Hospitaller Fortress, used during the
British Mandate, when part of the building
served as the Central Prison of Palestine,
thought to be escape-proof. Members of
the Jewish underground forces were held
in the prison and a number were hanged.
A museum and memorial tells the story of
the daring escape on May 4, 1947, that
made headlines around the world. Forty-
one members of the Etzel underground
escaped by blowing a hole in the prison
wall with smuggled-in explosives. (In the
confusion, 214 Arab inmates also escaped.)
Eleven Etzel members were caught, of
whom three were executed. The breakout,
a blow to British prestige, was commonly
thought to have hastened the end of their
rule in Palestine.
Acre, which in 2001 earned a place on
the prestigious UNESCO list of World
Heritage Sites, continues to rediscover itself
as the years go by, and invites visitors to
come and share in the discovery.